Skip to main content

Fuel tank repair: Day 5 --- tank sealer

Next process was the coating of the tank inside using the tank sealer.


At first I opened the can and mixed the sealer well.  The viscosity of the sealer was lower than I expected.


I poured the sealer into the tank carefully to prevent spilling it and closed the inlet of the tank with duct tapes.


After this, with imaging the movement of the sealer inside the tank, I held the tank, turned over, swung around, or jumped in order to spread the sealer completely inside the tank.
(There was no picture that I was dancing with the tank because my both hands were occupied.☺︎)

In 30 ~ 40 minutes my breath became rough and I stopped dancing.  I opened the inlet of the tank and returned the sealer to the can.


Surprisingly, the sealer used to coat the inside of the tank was only 1/5 of the full quantity.  I remembered that on the label they said the quantity was enough to repair 100L tank.  It seemed 4 more tanks could be repaired if remained sealer wouldn’t be hardened.  (But I didn’t have rusty tanks anymore.☺︎)

The inside of the tank was like this.



It looked that the inside of the tank was nicely coated by the sealer.
The instruction said “to dry the inside at least for 24 hours, preferably for 4 days after coating”.  So, I kept the tank with this condition to dry the inside until next week.


Before starting the repair of the tank I had lots of concerns, such as the removal of the tank from the body, the cleaning and the rust removal, making holes on tank by rust removal and so on.  However, in the reality, it went well although it took time.

It was much cheaper than the replacement with a new tank.  Moreover, it was good for me that I could use the original parts of my Alfa. 
I spent more than half of my summer holiday on this repair.  However, it was really good for me that I could complete the rust removal of the fuel tank, which was my homework for summer holiday. ☺︎☺︎☺︎☺︎☺︎


(My original blog was written on 18th Aug. 2008)
Labels:

Comments

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

Tip to repair rubber parts

I disassembled the rear axle before.  There had been no progress on it because I started the repair of the fuel tank during my summer holiday. While painting the fuel tank , I repaired the torn rubber boot of the parking brake wire. I guessed it didn ’ t cost high because it was small rubber part.  But I wanted to try the repair method I read on the magazine article before. This was the condition before the repair.  The rubber was torn apart and separated almost. I used this self-adhesive type butyl tape.  I pasted lots of small pieces of the butyl tape on the back side of the rubber boot.  As time goes by , these tapes would melt and stick together.  After this I applied plenty of adhesive “ Super X Black ” on the rubber boot.  On the magazine of MOTO MAINTENANCE , I read the article that the motorcycle seat was repaired with this method.  So , I wanted to try it. After drying 1 day , it became like this....
2 comments
Read more

Clutch master cylinder overhaul #5

Regarding the clutch master cylinder which I repaired the hole at piston with solder , one of my friend advised me that the solder might not be hard enough.  Therefore , I tried the repair again in another way. Disassembled the clutch master cylinder again. Now I can do it very quickly because I disassembled brake master and clutch master cylinders many times J Heated and removed the solder at the piston hole. I used the soldering iron instead of the burner because I heard giving too much heat on piston should be avoided. In this time , according to the advice from my friend , the repair method is to screw in the thread with strong adhesive into the hole , then grind the thread head to make the piston surface flat.  In order to do it I bought bolts and a grinding stone at the hardware store. Cutting the bolt to adjust the length to fit the hole depth.  Engrave the minus groove at the cut bolt head to make screwing in possible ...
Post a Comment
Read more