Skip to main content

Tip to repair rubber parts

I disassembled the rear axle before.  There had been no progress on it because I started the repair of the fuel tank during my summer holiday.

While painting the fuel tank, I repaired the torn rubber boot of the parking brake wire.
I guessed it didnt cost high because it was small rubber part.  But I wanted to try the repair method I read on the magazine article before.

This was the condition before the repair.  The rubber was torn apart and separated almost.


I used this self-adhesive type butyl tape.  I pasted lots of small pieces of the butyl tape on the back side of the rubber boot.  As time goes by, these tapes would melt and stick together. 


After this I applied plenty of adhesive Super X Black on the rubber boot.  On the magazine of MOTO MAINTENANCE, I read the article that the motorcycle seat was repaired with this method.  So, I wanted to try it.


After drying 1 day, it became like this.  It seemed that the repaired parts could be used as cover because the adhesive was very flexible material same as rubber.  If you need better appearance, you can also paint with matte black on this.  I didnt paint this because this part located at difficult position to be seen.


(My original blog was written on 5th Sep. 2008)

Comments

  1. These cables are available new from most any parts supplier. The boot is also available new.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you for your information! I wanted to try this method as an experimental repair. In the next time I will buy new parts from the supplier.

      Delete

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

Brake master cylinder overhaul #1

I started the overhaul of the brake master cylinder after the clutch slave cylinder. This day ’ s work was removal and disassembly of the brake master cylinder. My “ onboro ALFA ” is early type ( Mk. I ) 1750GTV RHD.  The brake master cylinder is made by BONARDI and it is installed on the frame under the floor together with the clutch master cylinder ( this is made by BENDITALIA ) . Regarding the removal , there was a little try and error. ( 1 ) Remove the pipes Then , I tried to separate the linkage rod connecting to the brake pedal.  However , the fixing nut was so hard that I changed the process. ( 2 ) Remove the bolts fixing the brake master cylinder on the frame. ( These bolts were also fixing the clutch master cylinder penetrating the frame. ) ( 3 ) & ( 4 ) Separate the linkage rod from the brake pedal , and remove the brake master cylinder together with the linkage rod. ( The linkage rod and the pedal were fixed by a split pin. ) ...

Could engine start?! (The original blog was written on 6th Oct. 2007)

One week passed and a long-awaited weekend came. I changed the engine oil , Put the oil from the sparkplug holes and rotate the crank by hand , Tighten the idle adjust screws to the end and return 1 turn , At last I turned on the ignition praying the moment of the engine starting.  After hearing the sound that the electric fuel pump sending the fuel , I pushed the gas pedal a few times then turned on the key … VROOOOOOOOM!!!!! The engine started with the first ignition!!!!! ☺︎☺︎☺︎ The engine revived for the first time in 10 years!  YES!!  I did it!!! I haven ’ t done the accurate adjustment , but the idling was stable and it seemed good. Tomorrow I would do the adjustment for the idling and throttle synchronization ♪