Skip to main content

Overhaul of WEBER #3 (The original blog was written on 2nd Sep. 2007)





Finally I have started the disassembly of the WEBER.  I was a bit nervous in front of the removed WEBER, some goods for the overhaul (I got them at 100Yen store and DIY hardware store) and my treasury genuine workshop manual.  At first I started to disassemble the WEBER for #3 and #4 cylinders, which seemed to be bad condition because of the sticking acceleration pump.


According to the instruction in the workshop manual, I removed the top cover, idling jets, main jets, inlet valves and acceleration pump retainer valve.  


So far there was no problem.  However, the acceleration pump jet was sticking.  I couldnt remove it… I decided to do it later.  I removed the choke jets, inspection screws, idling mixture screws and choke systems.  Finally I came to the sticking acceleration pump.  I removed the spring plate and pulled the pump….…but the sticking pump didnt move!!!


I gave up today.  Next time I would like to try a chemical solvent that saw several articles on the web.  If somebody knows other good solution, please let me know.

The numbers of the removed jets were as follows.  (   ) is the numbers of the WEBER 40 DCOE 4 in the service manual.
- Idling Jet: 50 F8 (50
- Main Jet: 135 F9 (127
- Choke Jet: 65 F5 (65
- Accel. pump Jet: Unknown (35

By the way, my WEBER was so dirty that I was very embarrassed!  I thought I should wash them in kerosene.

If someone knows a good way, please let me know.

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Tip to repair rubber parts

I disassembled the rear axle before.  There had been no progress on it because I started the repair of the fuel tank during my summer holiday. While painting the fuel tank , I repaired the torn rubber boot of the parking brake wire. I guessed it didn ’ t cost high because it was small rubber part.  But I wanted to try the repair method I read on the magazine article before. This was the condition before the repair.  The rubber was torn apart and separated almost. I used this self-adhesive type butyl tape.  I pasted lots of small pieces of the butyl tape on the back side of the rubber boot.  As time goes by , these tapes would melt and stick together.  After this I applied plenty of adhesive “ Super X Black ” on the rubber boot.  On the magazine of MOTO MAINTENANCE , I read the article that the motorcycle seat was repaired with this method.  So , I wanted to try it. After drying 1 day , it became like this....

Pad spring repair

One of the springs to hold the brake pads was broken.  At first I thought to buy it, however, I tried to fix it using rivets. It seemed to be strong enough just to hold pads.  Later I removed the rust and cleaned them. Note:  I have been using this repaired pad soring for 10 years and there is no issue. Pad spring is not an expensive part ptobably (I don't know the exact price), but it is easy to repair if you have ar1750gtv hand rivetter.   (My original blog was written on 10th May 2008 )

Body repair around the fuel tank

I found some rust at the flange in body around the fuel tank as I expected.  I believed this level of rust in this area was quite usual for old Alfa Romeo. It seemed that this area didn ’ t influence on the body strength , however , I was considering the method what I could do by myself. Anyway in order to prepare the sheet metal for the repair at first , I started to look for the store where I could buy some sheet metal near my house.  I tried to research the store on internet , but I couldn ’ t find appropriate stores.  Finally I asked the person at repair shop , who did maintenance of my Renault 5 , about the store I could buy some sheet metal. They kindly taught me the store , but at the same time they gave me some sheet metal for free.  That was enough volume for what I wanted to do. I didn ’ t expect it.  Thanks a lot!!! (My original blog was written on 12th Sep. 2008 )