Skip to main content

Installation of the fuel tank #2

Next was the installation of the fuel tank on the body.
Between the fuel tank and the trunk floor flange the cushion material like urethane was inserted.  Of course this was deteriorated by aging.  Therefore, I looked for the replacement material at DIY hardware store and bought the thick sponge sheet.


The sponge sheet was cut into 15mm width pieces.  It could be bent nicely fitting to the flange shape.  Double sided tape was attached on the back side, so it could be attached on the flange very easily.



Next tough job was the installation of the fuel tank in the trunk.
When I removed it, it was very complicated job like Rubiks cube.  Theoretically it should be possible to be installed in the reverse order of the removal.


But it was not easy.  When I did it alone in unnatural position, my arms became dull and it made me very tired.
The point to do it better was to be patient and to find the pinpoint position where the fuel tank could go through the floor hole.


To attach the rubber boot on the neck of the fuel tank was done more smoothly than I expected.  I put the rubber boot in a hot water in advance because the rubber became hard by aging.  It was very effective and made the rubber flexible.  This method could be useful for installing the aged rubber parts.



I found that the screws and washers to fix the tank were rusted, so I replaced them with new ones.



That's all the work for this day.  I also wanted to install the fuel sender unit and the electric fuel pump, but those would be next work.


(My original blog was written on 27th Oct. 2008)

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Tip to repair rubber parts

I disassembled the rear axle before.  There had been no progress on it because I started the repair of the fuel tank during my summer holiday. While painting the fuel tank , I repaired the torn rubber boot of the parking brake wire. I guessed it didn ’ t cost high because it was small rubber part.  But I wanted to try the repair method I read on the magazine article before. This was the condition before the repair.  The rubber was torn apart and separated almost. I used this self-adhesive type butyl tape.  I pasted lots of small pieces of the butyl tape on the back side of the rubber boot.  As time goes by , these tapes would melt and stick together.  After this I applied plenty of adhesive “ Super X Black ” on the rubber boot.  On the magazine of MOTO MAINTENANCE , I read the article that the motorcycle seat was repaired with this method.  So , I wanted to try it. After drying 1 day , it became like this....

Clutch master cylinder overhaul #5

Regarding the clutch master cylinder which I repaired the hole at piston with solder , one of my friend advised me that the solder might not be hard enough.  Therefore , I tried the repair again in another way. Disassembled the clutch master cylinder again. Now I can do it very quickly because I disassembled brake master and clutch master cylinders many times J Heated and removed the solder at the piston hole. I used the soldering iron instead of the burner because I heard giving too much heat on piston should be avoided. In this time , according to the advice from my friend , the repair method is to screw in the thread with strong adhesive into the hole , then grind the thread head to make the piston surface flat.  In order to do it I bought bolts and a grinding stone at the hardware store. Cutting the bolt to adjust the length to fit the hole depth.  Engrave the minus groove at the cut bolt head to make screwing in possible ...

Brake master cylinder overhaul #1

I started the overhaul of the brake master cylinder after the clutch slave cylinder. This day ’ s work was removal and disassembly of the brake master cylinder. My “ onboro ALFA ” is early type ( Mk. I ) 1750GTV RHD.  The brake master cylinder is made by BONARDI and it is installed on the frame under the floor together with the clutch master cylinder ( this is made by BENDITALIA ) . Regarding the removal , there was a little try and error. ( 1 ) Remove the pipes Then , I tried to separate the linkage rod connecting to the brake pedal.  However , the fixing nut was so hard that I changed the process. ( 2 ) Remove the bolts fixing the brake master cylinder on the frame. ( These bolts were also fixing the clutch master cylinder penetrating the frame. ) ( 3 ) & ( 4 ) Separate the linkage rod from the brake pedal , and remove the brake master cylinder together with the linkage rod. ( The linkage rod and the pedal were fixed by a split pin. ) ...