Rear axle overhaul (Left side) #2

I started the disassembly of the left side rear axle shaft and the removal of the hub bearing.

When I did it for the right side rear axle, I struggled to remove the hub bearing for 2-3 weeks. However, I believed I could do it easily thanks to my experience for the right side.

I removed the retainer nut at first. It was sticking a little bit, but it could be removed by hitting with the screw driver and the hammer.

Next was the removal of the parking brake shoes. It was because there was no space to set the puller on the hub bearing unless removing the parking brake shoes.

This was the hub bearing that was my rival. It was fixed very tightly.

Because the parking brake shoes were removed, the space for setting the puller on the bearing was secured.

I sprayed the rust penetration lubrication on the hub bearing, and set the “Super Special Long Arm Bearing Puller” that was my lethal weapon to remove the hub bearing on right side.

I believed my SSLABP would work well and could remove the hub bearing easily on this time.

I tightened the SSLABP strongly, then …

The stubborn hub bearing was removed finally.

The disassembly of the left side rear axle shaft and the hub bearing was done.

The coffee after successful work was very tasty. ☺︎

(My original blog was written on 17th Jan. 2009)

Comments

Tip to repair rubber parts

I disassembled the rear axle before. There had been no progress on it because I started the repair of the fuel tank during my summer holiday. While painting the fuel tank , I repaired the torn rubber boot of the parking brake wire. I guessed it didn ’ t cost high because it was small rubber part. But I wanted to try the repair method I read on the magazine article before. This was the condition before the repair. The rubber was torn apart and separated almost. I used this self-adhesive type butyl tape. I pasted lots of small pieces of the butyl tape on the back side of the rubber boot. As time goes by , these tapes would melt and stick together. After this I applied plenty of adhesive “ Super X Black ” on the rubber boot. On the magazine of MOTO MAINTENANCE , I read the article that the motorcycle seat was repaired with this method. So , I wanted to try it. After drying 1 day , it became like this....

Clutch master cylinder overhaul #3

I was still struggling with the sticking piston of the clutch master cylinder. I thought I should give up and look for the new part for the replacement. And to for my curiosity , I started to destroy and disassemble the clutch master cylinder piston by drilling. When I was drilling the piston halfway , I didn ’ t have any specific idea , however , I thought to tap the piston to make the thread. I started to turn the tap handle , and I felt the feeling that the piston was moved. So , I tried to pull it , and then suddenly the piston was removed from the cylinder. Finally I could extract the rusty piston! I observed the extracted piston. It looked there was no risk of the leakage of the fluid because the hole I made in the piston was not penetrated. Thinking the function that this part only holding the rod connected with the clutch pedal , it could be reused if the hole would be filled by the hard material. However , be...

Clutch master cylinder overhaul #2: tough match

I disassembled the removed clutch master cylinder. And I found that the piston was heavily rusted. I tried to hit it with a hummer , Pushed the piston using the vise clamp like this. However , the piston was heavily sticking by rust and it could not to be moved today. The brake master cylinder was replaced in the past , however , the clutch master cylinder was not. Therefore , the condition of the clutch master cylinder might be worse. Tentatively , I would spray the rust-penetration lubricant from both sides of the piston and try again in a few days. If it doesn ’ t work , I would give up the overhaul and order the new part. ( My original blog was written on 2nd July 2009 )

The day my "onboro ALFA" would revive

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