Skip to main content

Rebound stopper strap replacement: Assembly

Painting the metal parts of the rebound straps with remained POR tank sealer was finished.



After drying the paint I started the assembly of the rebound stopper straps.


To connect the double layered strap with the metal plates and bolts was little bit difficult because the strap was very solid and difficult to align the hole position.


It was easy to insert 1st, 2nd and 3rd bolts.  However, I struggled to insert the 4th bolt into the metal plate hole.  After several try and error, I fixed the position of the strap and metal plate with tie-wraps and succeeded to connect the strap with 4 bolts.



The other side could be assembled smoothly with the same way.


By the way, these were the vinyl packaging with Alfa Romeo logo for the new straps.  These are just wastes for the normal people, but for me it looks nice and it is difficult to throw away always.




(My original blog was written on 19th and 21st Dec. 2008)
Labels:

Comments

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

Tip to repair rubber parts

I disassembled the rear axle before.  There had been no progress on it because I started the repair of the fuel tank during my summer holiday. While painting the fuel tank , I repaired the torn rubber boot of the parking brake wire. I guessed it didn ’ t cost high because it was small rubber part.  But I wanted to try the repair method I read on the magazine article before. This was the condition before the repair.  The rubber was torn apart and separated almost. I used this self-adhesive type butyl tape.  I pasted lots of small pieces of the butyl tape on the back side of the rubber boot.  As time goes by , these tapes would melt and stick together.  After this I applied plenty of adhesive “ Super X Black ” on the rubber boot.  On the magazine of MOTO MAINTENANCE , I read the article that the motorcycle seat was repaired with this method.  So , I wanted to try it. After drying 1 day , it became like this....
2 comments
Read more

Clutch master cylinder overhaul #5

Regarding the clutch master cylinder which I repaired the hole at piston with solder , one of my friend advised me that the solder might not be hard enough.  Therefore , I tried the repair again in another way. Disassembled the clutch master cylinder again. Now I can do it very quickly because I disassembled brake master and clutch master cylinders many times J Heated and removed the solder at the piston hole. I used the soldering iron instead of the burner because I heard giving too much heat on piston should be avoided. In this time , according to the advice from my friend , the repair method is to screw in the thread with strong adhesive into the hole , then grind the thread head to make the piston surface flat.  In order to do it I bought bolts and a grinding stone at the hardware store. Cutting the bolt to adjust the length to fit the hole depth.  Engrave the minus groove at the cut bolt head to make screwing in possible ...
Post a Comment
Read more

Brake master cylinder overhaul #1

I started the overhaul of the brake master cylinder after the clutch slave cylinder. This day ’ s work was removal and disassembly of the brake master cylinder. My “ onboro ALFA ” is early type ( Mk. I ) 1750GTV RHD.  The brake master cylinder is made by BONARDI and it is installed on the frame under the floor together with the clutch master cylinder ( this is made by BENDITALIA ) . Regarding the removal , there was a little try and error. ( 1 ) Remove the pipes Then , I tried to separate the linkage rod connecting to the brake pedal.  However , the fixing nut was so hard that I changed the process. ( 2 ) Remove the bolts fixing the brake master cylinder on the frame. ( These bolts were also fixing the clutch master cylinder penetrating the frame. ) ( 3 ) & ( 4 ) Separate the linkage rod from the brake pedal , and remove the brake master cylinder together with the linkage rod. ( The linkage rod and the pedal were fixed by a split pin. ) ...
Post a Comment
Read more