Overhaul of WEBER #2 (The original blog was written on 26th Aug. 2007)

Yesterday, the removal of the WEBER was interrupted by the sticking nuts.

Today morning, I went to the DIY hardware store near my house thinking how I could remove the WEBER.
When I arrived at the store, “junk tool sale” was held at the store timely. I got the combination wrench set with the special price 498JPY (about $4.5). It seemed thinner and better than what I had used. And I also got the disc grinder to make the special tool from my old tools because I thought I would struggle to loosen the nuts.

However, contrary to my expectation, I could loosen the nuts easily by new 498JPY combination wrench. Great! There was no turn for the disc grinder I bought…okay I wanted it before. So, I could remove the WEBER finally.

After the removal I found that different size of nuts were used. 2 pieces of 12mm nuts and 2 pieces of 13mm nuts were used in the WEBER for #1 and #2 cylinders. And all 12mm nuts were used for the other WEBER. Moreover, some nuts had washers, some had spring washers, some had nothing…it was very random. I supposed that the previous owner or shop changed some nuts from 13mm to 12mm because of the work space when they removed the WEBER. Why didn’t they change all nuts to 12mm! But I was too insensitive because I drove more than 10 years without knowing it!

The type of the WEBER was 40 DCOE 32.
Wow, very dirty WEBER! I had to clean. But this day was up to here.

I cleaned the engine room little bit, but it was still dirty too.

Comments

Tip to repair rubber parts

I disassembled the rear axle before. There had been no progress on it because I started the repair of the fuel tank during my summer holiday. While painting the fuel tank , I repaired the torn rubber boot of the parking brake wire. I guessed it didn ’ t cost high because it was small rubber part. But I wanted to try the repair method I read on the magazine article before. This was the condition before the repair. The rubber was torn apart and separated almost. I used this self-adhesive type butyl tape. I pasted lots of small pieces of the butyl tape on the back side of the rubber boot. As time goes by , these tapes would melt and stick together. After this I applied plenty of adhesive “ Super X Black ” on the rubber boot. On the magazine of MOTO MAINTENANCE , I read the article that the motorcycle seat was repaired with this method. So , I wanted to try it. After drying 1 day , it became like this....

Pad spring repair

One of the springs to hold the brake pads was broken. At first I thought to buy it, however, I tried to fix it using rivets. It seemed to be strong enough just to hold pads. Later I removed the rust and cleaned them. Note: I have been using this repaired pad soring for 10 years and there is no issue. Pad spring is not an expensive part ptobably (I don't know the exact price), but it is easy to repair if you have ar1750gtv hand rivetter. (My original blog was written on 10th May 2008 )

Body repair around the fuel tank

I found some rust at the flange in body around the fuel tank as I expected. I believed this level of rust in this area was quite usual for old Alfa Romeo. It seemed that this area didn ’ t influence on the body strength , however , I was considering the method what I could do by myself. Anyway in order to prepare the sheet metal for the repair at first , I started to look for the store where I could buy some sheet metal near my house. I tried to research the store on internet , but I couldn ’ t find appropriate stores. Finally I asked the person at repair shop , who did maintenance of my Renault 5 , about the store I could buy some sheet metal. They kindly taught me the store , but at the same time they gave me some sheet metal for free. That was enough volume for what I wanted to do. I didn ’ t expect it. Thanks a lot!!! (My original blog was written on 12th Sep. 2008 )

The day my "onboro ALFA" would revive

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