Coughing (The original blog was written on 5th Nov. 2007)

I found that the coughing from the #1 cylinder at 1500~2000rpm.

I adjusted the idle adjust screw to make the gas richer direction, and then the coughing was disappear ☺︎

I wanted to start the next task, however, in this season I had lots of other events in every weeks, such as may kid’s basketball match, the open day of my kid’s school, so I couldn’t find the time.

Rusted fuel tank, the overhaul of the sticking brake calipers and master cylinder, the overhaul of clutch master cylinder and the replacement of hub bearing … there were millions of tasks I had to do!

The rust removal of the fuel tank seemed to be tough. Someone said that it should be done by professional shop because there might be the risk of the explosion. I was wondering how should I do?

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Tip to repair rubber parts

I disassembled the rear axle before. There had been no progress on it because I started the repair of the fuel tank during my summer holiday. While painting the fuel tank , I repaired the torn rubber boot of the parking brake wire. I guessed it didn ’ t cost high because it was small rubber part. But I wanted to try the repair method I read on the magazine article before. This was the condition before the repair. The rubber was torn apart and separated almost. I used this self-adhesive type butyl tape. I pasted lots of small pieces of the butyl tape on the back side of the rubber boot. As time goes by , these tapes would melt and stick together. After this I applied plenty of adhesive “ Super X Black ” on the rubber boot. On the magazine of MOTO MAINTENANCE , I read the article that the motorcycle seat was repaired with this method. So , I wanted to try it. After drying 1 day , it became like this....

Brake master cylinder overhaul #1

I started the overhaul of the brake master cylinder after the clutch slave cylinder. This day ’ s work was removal and disassembly of the brake master cylinder. My “ onboro ALFA ” is early type ( Mk. I ) 1750GTV RHD. The brake master cylinder is made by BONARDI and it is installed on the frame under the floor together with the clutch master cylinder ( this is made by BENDITALIA ) . Regarding the removal , there was a little try and error. ( 1 ) Remove the pipes Then , I tried to separate the linkage rod connecting to the brake pedal. However , the fixing nut was so hard that I changed the process. ( 2 ) Remove the bolts fixing the brake master cylinder on the frame. ( These bolts were also fixing the clutch master cylinder penetrating the frame. ) ( 3 ) & ( 4 ) Separate the linkage rod from the brake pedal , and remove the brake master cylinder together with the linkage rod. ( The linkage rod and the pedal were fixed by a split pin. ) ...

Fuel pump (The original blog was written on 15th Aug. 2007)

Although the gas was refilled , the gas didn ’ t come to the carburetors. The electric fuel pump was working , but it still did blank beating. I replaced the pump soon after I bought this car…but it was about 20 years ago! So , I decided to replace the electric fuel pump to new one , and to change the location of the pump from the engine room to the trunk room ( because for the electric fuel pump to push the fuel is better than to pull the fuel ) . I bought the Mitsuba electric fuel pump , fuel hoses and a fuel filter by auction and installed them in the trunk room. ( The wiring is tentative. But I am ashamed because the trunk room is so dirty… ) However , even the new fuel pump was working well , the fuel didn ’ t come. I guessed that the inlet of the fuel sender unit in the tank was sticking. I remove the unit from the tank and found the rusty unit and its inlet was perfectly blocked by the rust ( I forgot to take the pictu...

The day my "onboro ALFA" would revive

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