Skip to main content

Fuel tank repair: Day 5 --- tank sealer

Next process was the coating of the tank inside using the tank sealer.


At first I opened the can and mixed the sealer well.  The viscosity of the sealer was lower than I expected.


I poured the sealer into the tank carefully to prevent spilling it and closed the inlet of the tank with duct tapes.


After this, with imaging the movement of the sealer inside the tank, I held the tank, turned over, swung around, or jumped in order to spread the sealer completely inside the tank.
(There was no picture that I was dancing with the tank because my both hands were occupied.☺︎)

In 30 ~ 40 minutes my breath became rough and I stopped dancing.  I opened the inlet of the tank and returned the sealer to the can.


Surprisingly, the sealer used to coat the inside of the tank was only 1/5 of the full quantity.  I remembered that on the label they said the quantity was enough to repair 100L tank.  It seemed 4 more tanks could be repaired if remained sealer wouldn’t be hardened.  (But I didn’t have rusty tanks anymore.☺︎)

The inside of the tank was like this.



It looked that the inside of the tank was nicely coated by the sealer.
The instruction said “to dry the inside at least for 24 hours, preferably for 4 days after coating”.  So, I kept the tank with this condition to dry the inside until next week.


Before starting the repair of the tank I had lots of concerns, such as the removal of the tank from the body, the cleaning and the rust removal, making holes on tank by rust removal and so on.  However, in the reality, it went well although it took time.

It was much cheaper than the replacement with a new tank.  Moreover, it was good for me that I could use the original parts of my Alfa. 
I spent more than half of my summer holiday on this repair.  However, it was really good for me that I could complete the rust removal of the fuel tank, which was my homework for summer holiday. ☺︎☺︎☺︎☺︎☺︎


(My original blog was written on 18th Aug. 2008)
Labels:

Comments

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

Tip to repair rubber parts

I disassembled the rear axle before.  There had been no progress on it because I started the repair of the fuel tank during my summer holiday. While painting the fuel tank , I repaired the torn rubber boot of the parking brake wire. I guessed it didn ’ t cost high because it was small rubber part.  But I wanted to try the repair method I read on the magazine article before. This was the condition before the repair.  The rubber was torn apart and separated almost. I used this self-adhesive type butyl tape.  I pasted lots of small pieces of the butyl tape on the back side of the rubber boot.  As time goes by , these tapes would melt and stick together.  After this I applied plenty of adhesive “ Super X Black ” on the rubber boot.  On the magazine of MOTO MAINTENANCE , I read the article that the motorcycle seat was repaired with this method.  So , I wanted to try it. After drying 1 day , it became like this....
2 comments
Read more

Brake master cylinder overhaul #1

I started the overhaul of the brake master cylinder after the clutch slave cylinder. This day ’ s work was removal and disassembly of the brake master cylinder. My “ onboro ALFA ” is early type ( Mk. I ) 1750GTV RHD.  The brake master cylinder is made by BONARDI and it is installed on the frame under the floor together with the clutch master cylinder ( this is made by BENDITALIA ) . Regarding the removal , there was a little try and error. ( 1 ) Remove the pipes Then , I tried to separate the linkage rod connecting to the brake pedal.  However , the fixing nut was so hard that I changed the process. ( 2 ) Remove the bolts fixing the brake master cylinder on the frame. ( These bolts were also fixing the clutch master cylinder penetrating the frame. ) ( 3 ) & ( 4 ) Separate the linkage rod from the brake pedal , and remove the brake master cylinder together with the linkage rod. ( The linkage rod and the pedal were fixed by a split pin. ) ...
Post a Comment
Read more

Fuel pump (The original blog was written on 15th Aug. 2007)

Although the gas was refilled , the gas didn ’ t come to the carburetors.  The electric fuel pump was working , but it still did blank beating.  I replaced the pump soon after I bought this car…but it was about 20 years ago!  So , I decided to replace the electric fuel pump to new one , and to change the location of the pump from the engine room to the trunk room ( because for the electric fuel pump to push the fuel is better than to pull the fuel ) . I bought the Mitsuba electric fuel pump , fuel hoses and a fuel filter by auction and installed them in the trunk room.   ( The wiring is tentative.  But I am ashamed because the trunk room is so dirty… ) However , even the new fuel pump was working well , the fuel didn ’ t come.  I guessed that the inlet of the fuel sender unit in the tank was sticking.  I remove the unit from the tank and found the rusty unit and its inlet was perfectly blocked by the rust ( I forgot to take the pictu...
Post a Comment
Read more