Clutch master cylinder overhaul #5

Regarding the clutch master cylinder which I repaired the hole at piston with solder, one of my friend advised me that the solder might not be hard enough. Therefore, I tried the repair again in another way.

Disassembled the clutch master cylinder again.

Now I can do it very quickly because I disassembled brake master and clutch master cylinders many times J

Heated and removed the solder at the piston hole.

I used the soldering iron instead of the burner because I heard giving too much heat on piston should be avoided.

In this time, according to the advice from my friend, the repair method is to screw in the thread with strong adhesive into the hole, then grind the thread head to make the piston surface flat. In order to do it I bought bolts and a grinding stone at the hardware store.

Cutting the bolt to adjust the length to fit the hole depth.

Engrave the minus groove at the cut bolt head to make screwing in possible with minus screw driver.

It took time, but the result was not bad.

Paste the JB weld in the piston hole.

And screw in the cut bolt with minus screw driver.

Then, grind the bolt and piston with the grinding stone.

Using power drill,

Grind, grind, grind….

It took longer time than I expected to make the piston and bolt becoming flat. Steel is much harder than solder.

I reassembled the clutch master cylinder right away.

I believe finally the overhaul of my clutch master cylinder has finished!

(My original blog was written on 28th Jul. and 2nd Aug. 2009)

Comments

Tip to repair rubber parts

I disassembled the rear axle before. There had been no progress on it because I started the repair of the fuel tank during my summer holiday. While painting the fuel tank , I repaired the torn rubber boot of the parking brake wire. I guessed it didn ’ t cost high because it was small rubber part. But I wanted to try the repair method I read on the magazine article before. This was the condition before the repair. The rubber was torn apart and separated almost. I used this self-adhesive type butyl tape. I pasted lots of small pieces of the butyl tape on the back side of the rubber boot. As time goes by , these tapes would melt and stick together. After this I applied plenty of adhesive “ Super X Black ” on the rubber boot. On the magazine of MOTO MAINTENANCE , I read the article that the motorcycle seat was repaired with this method. So , I wanted to try it. After drying 1 day , it became like this....

Pad spring repair

One of the springs to hold the brake pads was broken. At first I thought to buy it, however, I tried to fix it using rivets. It seemed to be strong enough just to hold pads. Later I removed the rust and cleaned them. Note: I have been using this repaired pad soring for 10 years and there is no issue. Pad spring is not an expensive part ptobably (I don't know the exact price), but it is easy to repair if you have ar1750gtv hand rivetter. (My original blog was written on 10th May 2008 )

Body repair around the fuel tank

I found some rust at the flange in body around the fuel tank as I expected. I believed this level of rust in this area was quite usual for old Alfa Romeo. It seemed that this area didn ’ t influence on the body strength , however , I was considering the method what I could do by myself. Anyway in order to prepare the sheet metal for the repair at first , I started to look for the store where I could buy some sheet metal near my house. I tried to research the store on internet , but I couldn ’ t find appropriate stores. Finally I asked the person at repair shop , who did maintenance of my Renault 5 , about the store I could buy some sheet metal. They kindly taught me the store , but at the same time they gave me some sheet metal for free. That was enough volume for what I wanted to do. I didn ’ t expect it. Thanks a lot!!! (My original blog was written on 12th Sep. 2008 )

The day my "onboro ALFA" would revive

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